USB Connector on Side of Monitor

This USB connector is direct mounted on the LCD Controller Board and basically provides 2 Video Inputs, a power input and an Audio Input.

Pin # on USB Connection	Signal	Connector
1	Audio Input	White RCA
2	Video Input #2	Yellow RCA
3	Video Input #1	Red RCA
4	Power Input (12VDC)	Power Connector
Shell	Chassis GND	Shell

USB Type A Socket (DigiKey P/N AU-Y1005-ND)

Each RCA shield is connected to USB Shell

Pin 4 Mini Pin TBD. Outer shield of mini pin connected to USB shell also.

USB Touchscreen Info

The touchscreen gets all its power off the USB connector on your motherboard or USB hub. There is a small PCB that connect to the USB and to a 4 wire resistive touchscreen, manufacturer unknown.

PCB measures 20mm x 68mm. Has 4 pin connection (JH1B) on one end to touchscreen and a 5 pin connector (J1) on the other for USB. Only 4 pins are wired to J1, Pin 1 NC, Pin 2 Black (+5V), Pin 3 Red (Gnd), Pin 4 White (USB Data+) and Pin 5 Orange (USB Data -).

The board has an 8 Bit RISC enCoRe USB programmable microcontroller by Cypress Semiconductor part number C76C63743.  It the biggest chip on the USB board and has 24 pins. This chip doesn't have any internal EEPROM.

The tiny 8 pin chip is the ATC 93C46 and is a 1 kBit serial EEPROM, or SEEPROM.  ATCorp doesn't have any datasheets on their website, but the same part is also made by Microchip and Holtek.  This chip is where the calibration values are stored.

A few people have been complaining that they are getting an EEPROM error when they do a calibration. But if they install the touchscreen drivers on another PC it works.

LCD Panel

The Lilliput LCD uses the Hitachi TX18D11VM1CAA LCD Panel. Here are some photos of the LCD Panel.

Photos of the important connections that may need to be hacked in order to remove the LCD from the enclosure and install it in something else.

	Close up shot of the wiring to the USB touchscreen PCB. Pin 1 is the square pad on the right, which is a no connect. Pin 2 (black)    +5V Pin 3 (red)      Gnd Pin 4 (white)    Data + Pin 5 (orange)  Data -
	Close up of the other VGA wiring going to LCD Controller Board. Pin 1 shown on the right. Pin 1 (black)     Chassis GND Pin 2 (gray)      Vertical Sync Pin 3 (green)    Horiz.  Sync Pin 4 (brown)   Blue Pin 5 (purple)   Green Pin 6 (blue)      Red
	Here is the switchboard. The purpose of this board is to read all user input via 7 switches and one IR photodetector for the user remote. It also has 7 blue LEDs and one bi-color LED for the power indicator. Each of the blue LEDs have a current limiting resistor. The bi-color LED does not. Phototransistor is similar to: Sharp IS1U621L Sensors for Remote Control Panasonic PNA4601M Series
	I am assigning Pin 1 to the connection in the photo. For the purposes of my documentation, which may not be what the manufacturer considers Pin 1. Pin 1    Switch Menu Left > Pin 2   Switch Volume Up ^ Pin 3   Switch Menu Right < Pin 4    Switch Menu Pin 5    Switch Power Pin 6    Switch Volume Down v Pin 7    Switch Input PC/AV Pin 8    Phototransistor Pin 2 (GND), Switch Common & LED Cathode (Red & Green Only) Pin 9    Phototransistor Pin 3 (Vcc) and Blue LED Anode (all 7) Common Pin 10   Phototransistor Pin 1 (Vout) Pin 11   Green LED Power Pin 12   Blue LED Sink to Ground - connects to all 7 resistors Pin 13   Red LED Power

Remote Locating IR Receiver

From my best guess, the IR receiver is a Vishay part, I've narrowed it down to the following part numbers.

TSOP321
TSOP341
TSOP344
TSOP348

From what I can tell, its a 38KHz part. To remote locate, simply unsolder it and run 3 wires from the board to the IR receiver. I've been able to just use 3 strands of 26AWG at 18" long (unshielded)

To keep the Blue LEDs on all the time, connect pin 12 to pin 8.

There are 3 commonly used ways to auto-power on the Lilliput (so you don't have to press the power switch every time your system powers up)

• Short the power switch, jump Pin 5 and Pin 8. - This does not allow you to turn it on/off or use any of the buttons

• Use an RC network to auto-power on as posted by Coyote on MP3CAR.COM

Newer Lilliputs can be programmed very easily to turn on, REQUIRING NO HARDWARE MODIFICATIONS. Just need to use your remote and follow these instructions:

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=486885#post486885

Powering the Lilliput

I power the LCD with 12V out of my 90W Opus power supply. This ensures a clean, constant 12V so the screen brightness won't fluctuate with supply voltage. To connect to the 12V from the OPUS, I use one of the HDD connectors (Black = ground, Yellow = +12V, red = +5V and is not used by Lilliput)

I set the Opus to turn off 20 minutes after the ignition is turned off and I didn't want the LCD to be on while the ignition was off (no need to attract thieves), so I used a relay to control when the LCD is on. The coil of the relay is connected to the ignition ACC wire.

This relay circuit guarantees that LCD only gets 12V power whenever both the Ignition is on and the OPUS is on.  So when I take out my key, the LCD is off, but the PC is still on for 20 min.

The LCD can start to warm up on the right side, so after calibration it gets goofy on that side. Also, sometimes it doesn't quite let you get too close to the edge.  My workaround, do the 25 point calibration and cheat around the edges that are giving me trouble, usually just the right edge in my case. Basically I miss the target to the left about 1/8" or so.