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This is the
new Lilliput 2008 LED Backlight 629 |
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Remove the 4
screws on the back, one in each corner |
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Crack the
housing open, there are plastic interlocking tabs you need to break apart, don't
break them, just take a flat screwdriver and pry the bottom open, the rest will
pop apart once you get the first onel. |
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Slide the
screen over, there are 4 screws you need to remove the green circuit board. Use
a Phillips screwdriver #0 tip. |
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Another of
the 4 screws |
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There is a
tiny power input board, remove its 4 screws. |
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Now pull the
rear of the LCD housing away from the circuit board, remove the speaker cable
from the board. |
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Now remove
the LCD from the front of the LCD housing, there are 4 clips holding it down in
4 corners. Loosen those up and move the clips away from the LCD. |
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Remove the
screws holding down the skinny switch board, now the LCD should be completely
free from the housing. |
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Here is the
Mechatroniks Kit, showing all the screws you need.
1 Bezel (Top)
1 Circuit board Adapter (bottom)
2 Black Plastic Brackets
Screw Kit |
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Mount the LCD
and touchscreen inside the bezel. It should fit with minimal space to spare.
Make sure the flex cable fits into the notch that is made for it. |
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Now using the
#4-40 x 1/2" Pan Head Screws, mount the black plastic brackets as shown. |
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Other Side |
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Optional -
You can remove this power input board if you use the power input on the cable. |
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Next line up
your
circuit board
adapter with your circuit board to determine which holes you will be using for
the standoffs.
Mark them
with a Sharpie on this side. We will call this side the sharpie side. |
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This is your
standoff supplied with the kit. The narrow end is put into the hole. Make sure
you put it on the correct side. |
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Install
standoff in hole on correct side.
Sharpie marks
should be on other side. |
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Put standoff
on hard surface, like concrete floor and hit it on the sharpie side with a
hammer. You want to flatten this side of the standoff. |
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You should
flatten the flare side of the standoff like this. |
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The standoff
should look like this. |
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Your
circuit board
adapter should look something like this. |
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Now mount the
circuit board adapter on to the black plastic brackets using the 4 self tapping
screws. |
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Gently take
the big PCB and the small PCB and screw them into the circuit board adapter.
Secure them with the #2-56 screws.
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Attach the
cable, you will notice that it will stick out too far, the strain relief needs
to be trimmed to make it fit. |
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Now carefully
cut the strain relief as shown. I used an X-Acto saw blade to gently cut almost
all the way thru, then I snap it off.
BE
CAREFUL, DO NOT CUT THRU, ITS REAL EASY TO CUT THESE WIRES. |
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The saw blade
works best, the plastic is somewhat soft, but gives the impression that its
difficult to cut, but as you start to cut thru it, its gets real easy to cut.
Take your time cutting it and don't cut the wires. This is the hardest part of
building this kit. |
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Once the
strain relief is cut away from the connector housing, I snip it off the cable.
You can leave it on, it won't get in the way. |
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Now you
notice that the harness now has just enough room to fit. |
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Now carefully
mount the chassis to the bezel, be careful with the harness as well as the
skinny circuit board. |
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Now you can
screw in the chassis with the flat head #6-32 screws. |
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And there you
have it. |
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I usually
tape down the skinny switch board as it contains the IR receiver for the remote
and you can still access all the switches. |
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Since there
is no soldering involved, this build is fairly easy. Attach power and VGA, and
you are in busisness. |