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Your Lilliput LCD just showed up from UPS and
you are ready to install it into your PC. |
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The Lilliput comes with clear plastic wrap,
careful when cutting it that you don't scratch the touchscreen.
Before you
do anything, you should do a full power up test to confirm the LCD works.
Hook it up to a PC VGA connector and to video source. Install the
touchscreen drivers and make sure it works. |
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Everything you do from now on will void your
warrantee. So be careful!
With a small Philips screwdriver, start to
remove screws from back. |
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2nd screw |
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3rd screw |
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Last Screw |
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Gently pry apart the 2 halves using a flat head
screwdriver.
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It won't come right apart, but once you get it,
it will pop. |
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Slide back housing to one side to expose screws
that hold LCD panel to front housing. Loosen screws and rotate clips. |
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Screw #2 |
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Now slide other way to expose screws on other
side. |
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Last screw. |
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Now the front housing can come off |
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There are 4 screws holding circuit board to the
back housing. Remove those |
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#2 |
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#3 |
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#4 |
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Now pull LCD panel and circuit board out of rear
housing. |
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Disconnect speaker connector |
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This is the front housing switch circuit board
connector. That needs to come off. |
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Remove the VGA connector.
Using a screwdriver,
gently pull the connector out. NEVER PULL ON THE WIRES WHEN REMOVING A
CONNECTOR.
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Now, the USB Touchscreen board connection is the
only one we need to de-solder and re-solder. First examine closely where
each color is soldered to. Use your voltmeter and draw a schematic showing
where the 4 wires connect.
Note: New boards now have a connector here - which doesn't require any
soldering. |
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Using a small tip 20-35W soldering iron, heat up
the connections and pull the wires off the board.
Alternatively, you could cut the wires in the middle and re-solder the
together later. I prefer to not add any more connections than necessary. |
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The wires are not soldered into holes, they
should pop right off after you give it a bit of heat. Also, the newer
Lilliputs have a bit of glue holding the solder joints together. |
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Clean off the excess solder. |
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Using a flat head screwdriver, clean off the
glue. Careful not the scrape the circuit board |
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Now we have to remove the wire from the rear of
the housing. |
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To fit it thru the hole, you need to cut the
short piece of heat shrink around the cable or just push it down out of the
way |
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Pull the 4 USB wires thru the hole |
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Now, carefully push the VGA connector thru the
hole. Its very tight, but doable. Don't pull on the wires, push the
connector thru from this end. Be gentle. |
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Now, the cable is out. |
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Re-connect the VGA cable |
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Time to reconnect the USB connector. I cut the
ends off and stripped them back about 4mm. |
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Re-solder the wires back on where they were. |
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Add a strain relief. I didn't have that glue
Lilliput uses, so I used a zip tie. |
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While the soldering iron is hot, we need to add
a power input connection. I usually add a 4 pin Molex.
I solder the GND from the connector to the bottom of the board, just
under the power connector.
If you look at the input power connector, the center pin is +12V and the
outer tab is GND. Use your voltmeter to confirm your GND. |
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I solder the black wire just on top of these 2
round pads.
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The easiest place to solder the +12V lead is to
the back of the power connector. I actually solder it right to that
FUSE, that is where the input pin connects to. |
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Strain relief this with a zip tie.
I cut the
red (+5V) and 2nd black (GND) wire from this cable. If you get a fan cable,
the wire gauge will be smaller and easier to work with.
Check your work with a voltmeter. Make sure you don't get a power to
ground short! |
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Now its all wired up, time to install in Bezel.
Make sure bezel is clean. Your LCD screen is clean.
When you install it, make sure the flex cable from the touchscreen goes
into the relieved side of the bezel. The screen can only go in 2 ways, look
for the relief in the bezel wall (where it gets thin) to match up with the
flex cable.
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Now place the provided Sorbothane pads to sit
under the Delrin brackets. |
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2 pads on each side |
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Now screw in the delrin bracket. |
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On the other side, you have to tuck the
backlight wires into the built in recess on the back of the LCD panel. This
will keep the wires down and out of the way when you install the delrin
bracket on this side.
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On the USB touchscreen board, there are 2 nylon
mounts that hold this board to the main board. You need to remove this one.
Push it in from this side and pry it from the other side. |
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Now screw the main LCD to the delrin mounts. On
the newer Lilliputs, the hole spacing is a bit off and you may only get 3
screws instead of 4. It works fine with just 3 screws. |
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No longer required for newer LCDs.
See:
mp3car.com
For the auto power on mod for older
Lilliputs, this is documented at
mp3car.com
You will need a 10uF (6.3V min) capacitor and a 150 k-ohm (1/10 watt min)
resistor.
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Stop here and do an electrical test.
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Hook up 12V DC power using the supplied DC
adapter. Your LCD should turn on. When it does, use your voltmeter to
measure the voltage on the molex power connector. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT,
THIS WILL CONFIRM YOUR CONNECTION AND THE POLARITY. You should get +12V
(plus or minus a little) on the molex, with black being ground and yellow
being hot. Check your VGA input and your touchscreen. It should all be
working. |
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Now the LCD is installed in the bezel and ready
to attach bezel to chassis. |
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Use 3 #6-32 screws on each side of chassis to
attach to bezel. |
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Now its all done. |
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Ready to install in car. |